Learning Turkish

Last year I wrote about my problems with learning Turkish, and unfortunately this isn't getting much better.
I relied on mime a lot of the time in Ankara, and it has failed me in Izmir, after trying to explain a few things to my landlady (Hornets, washing machine breakdown), so I'm now studying Turkish.

Unfortunately because of work commitments it's difficult for me to attend classes, so I am going down the self study route, with a couple of books, and post it notes stuck all around my flat, with new vocabulary.
I can remember vocabulary quite easily, but I'm having a big problem with grammar.

Last week I needed to pay an electric bill, but I wasn't sure where I could pay.  I was due to pay my rent at the estate agents, so I took my bill along with me.

I was given the usual glass of tea on my arrival and I took my electric bill out, waved it at them, and said 'Electric, para, nerede?' 'Electric, money, where?'  I sounded like a Turkish cave-woman, but they were so happy with my efforts.  'Excellent Turkish' they complimented me!

I don't worry about making mistakes and I am studying the grammar, but I am finally (very slowly) getting understood!!

Everybody needs good neighbours

After moving into my apartment in Izmir, I have met a few of my neighbours.  I live in a block of around 20 flats, and I'm situated right on the top floor, so I often pass my neighbour's doors and they are always willing to chat to the Yabanci (foreigner)!

The neighbours have been so welcoming even if I can't have a full conversation with them, and they often knock on the door with some food for me to try.  This is often fruit, but also last month I also had a few offerings of Asure.  Asure or Noah's Pudding is a dessert which is made of grains, fruits and nuts.  It is claimed that when Noah's ark came to rest on Mount Ararat, Noah's family celebrated with a special dish.  As they were running low on supplies they used what was remaining (grains, dried fruit etc) to make a dessert.  This is now what is known as Asure and every family has a different recipe.  Now it is made to celebrate the Ark's landing and shared with friends, family and neighbours.  Even for someone with a sweet tooth, it's very sweet!!

Some Asure from one of my neighbours

I was stopped in the street near my flat recently, I think it was one of my many neighbours, keen to know if I was settling in.  I assured her that I was  and she went merrily on their way.

My next door neighbour often knocks on my door (or wall if I don't answer straight away).  We have a short chat.  Last time she brought me a plate of melon and invited me round to her home for coffee.  When I'm a little bit more confident with my Turkish language skills I will go.

I have always found Turkish people to be very welcoming wherever I have visited, and I am so happy to be in my neighbourhood where they have welcomed me with open arms.

Settling into Izmir Life

I have been in Izmir for a few months, but internet has been limited.

When I arrived I was staying in temporary accommodation while I looked for my own place.  Finding a furnished flat is difficult in Izmir, they are in demand and the good ones are snapped up immediately.  I scoured the internet for hours each day in the hope of being the first one to view a good place.  I viewed a number of places, and none were suitable, or was I being too fussy??  I was getting disheartened when I saw a flat online, and there was a photo of the view, it was breath taking.  I had to have a look at this place.  I arranged a viewing for the next day (Saturday evening) and although it was on the top floor (70 stairs) I knew it was for me.  I'm sure you will agree the view is stunning!

The flat is situated at the top of a hill, but is easily reached by Metro (Izmir's easy to follow underground railway, there is only one line!!). The area is vibrant and has a traditional feel to it.  I haven't seen any other foreigners in this area as yet.

One of the first problems I had when I moved in was a large amount of hornets, or donkey bees as they are known as in Turkey.  I tried to find out from my landlady if there was a nest in the roof, but everything got lost in translation, it started out as her thinking I couldn't open the balcony door, so I had a full demonstration.  When I pointed to the roof, she thought I was trying to say that someone might try and get in through the roof, so I was taken to show how secure the building is! (I think I am now known as the crazy yabanci (foreigner)) So I have learnt to live with the 'Donkey Bees'.  They have the balcony from 10-3, and I have it the rest of the time!  I'm not sure where they come from but they only stick around for a few hours, so I live with it!

My washing machine broke, I was a little more successful in getting this across to the engineer.  It was quickly fixed and all is well.

I have finally got internet.  Again I was impressed with the efficiency, but this was shortlived.  Stage one was supposed to take 7 working days, but this morning (on day 1 of the 7), the doorbell rang, I was faced with a red faced man who had just conquered the 70 stairs.  'Hello, little English, Internet.'  Excellent, I let him in, he did his job, then he said 'I go now, I love you.'  Umm OK, I can't imagine BT engineers declaring their love for their customers!!  The modem was delivered a couple of days later, where the cheery engineer connected me, and said the internet signal would be with me that day.  Unfortunately that's where the efficiency ended.  It has taken a lot longer than the expected seven days, and each time I called them I was told 'There is a problem.'  Obviously!!

I have now settled into life in Izmir, the pace is more relaxed than Ankara that's for sure!!

Landing in Izmir

After spending a fantastic 2 month summer break in Wales with family and friends, it was soon time to start packing for my next adventure in Turkey and say goodbye to everyone.  Packing was a challenge as I knew there were a lot of things I struggled to get in Turkey, or which were really expensive, so I packed my curry spices, coconut oil, stock cubes, supplements, wasabi peas and of course my beloved fruit pastilles.  I went shopping for new shoes as its almost impossible to but shoes in Turkey for my huge (size 41 or 7 in UK) feet!!

Although I was sad to say goodbye to all my friends and family in Wales I was excited as I was moving to a different city and i had heard so many good things about Izmir.  The big plus for me was that Izmir is located on the coast, and this is one of the big things I was missing in Ankara.  Because of the location this would also mean milder winters, so no more -20 degrees Celsius for me again!!  Izmir is the third biggest city in Turkey (after Istanbul and Ankara), with a population of approximately 3.5 million, so in comparison to North Wales it's huge, but it's smaller than Ankara.

I had never been to Izmir when I made the decision to accept a job there, but I had faith in my friends who were telling me so many positives about it.

I arrived at night and was taken straight to my hotel so I didn't get a chance to see the city until the following morning and I was impressed with what I saw.  The city is quite clean, the air feels really clean, thanks to the proximity to the sea, there are palm trees everywhere and the and the city has a relaxed vibe about it.  It feels a lot smaller than Ankara, and there is a lot less traffic (and a lot less beeping of the horn).

The city has a lot of tourists especially along the seafront when there is a cruise ship in the port.
Public  transport is easy to use and efficient, and I especially like the frequent ferries to different parts of the city.

I'm really looking forward to exploring the city and seeing what the area has got to offer, and of course tasting the local cuisine.  So far I have discovered the cig kofte is the best I have ever tasted!

Eating in Fethiye - Mozaik Bahce

For me every holiday to Calis Beach MUST have at least one visit to Mozaik Bahce, and my latest holiday was no exception.

I had already visited one lunchtime and had a ciger durum (liver wrap), which was amazing.  

I had heard about the sampler afternoon that was now on offer at the restaurant.  This is available for groups of 10 or more, and I joined a group on a Saturday afternoon during my holiday.  The meal was a bargain at 30TL, and I made sure I only had a small breakfast that day as they are generous with their servings!

I arrived at 2 o'clock and met my fellow diners.  I ordered my drink and then the food started to arrive!  The sampler is a selection of food off the main menu, and as I usually stuck to the same options I was excited to try some different meals.

Mozaik Bahce specialises in food from the Hatay area which is in the South East of Turkey, and is known for its fantastic food.  When I was in Ankara, all the students told me that I must try food from Hatay.  Food from this area is spicy and full of flavour, so I knew I was in for a treat!

To start with we had a mixed meze plate and icli kofte (mincemeat in couscous) to share, with some of the restaurant's famous pepper bread.

Mixed Meze

Icli Kofte

Pepper Bread

 After a short break the main meals were brought out - a mixed grill (sorry no photo), which had various meats, my favourite being the liver, which I never used to like at home, but this is so good, stuffed chicken (this is stuffed with cheese, pine and pistachio nuts) - this was very tasty, Ali Nazik - Minced meat and pine nuts served on a yoghurt base, again this was full of flavour, Arab Kebab - minced meat and vegetables, Tavuc Guvec - Chicken casserole served with cheese.  All of the dishes were very tasty, but when I visited later in the week I selected the stuffed chicken from the menu as I had enjoyed it so much.

Arab Kebab

Casserole

Side dishes of potato and bulgar wheat (and a yoghurt dish)

Ali Nasik

By this time I was feeling so full, but there were still the desserts to sample.  I have never tried the desserts in Mozaik Bahce before as I never had any room for them, so I was determined to give them a try.

We had Sam Tatlisi - Semolina, Walnuts and Cinnamon, Cevizili Tas Kadayif - Pancakes stuffed with Walnuts and Cinnamon, Kunefe, Cevizli Havuc - Carrot Cake.  I somehow managed to find room to give them all a try and I have to say the Cevizli Havuc (top of the plate slightly hidden by the ice cream) came out on top for me.  It was delicious.

All in all the meal was delicious and gave me a chance to try some food on the menu that I wouldn't have chosen (because I always seem to order the same thing!) and it was a bargain!!

Mozaik Bahce is in Fethiye, Cumhuriyet Mah 90/91 Sokak (Behind Domino's Pizza).

Eating in Calis Beach - Aroma

On my way back to the UK from Ankara, I stopped off in Calis Beach, Fethiye for a much needed break.  Calis Beach is where I first fell in love with Turkey, the friendly locals, the stunning sunset and the fantastic food.  Unusually the weather wasn't great on this visit, with stormy weather, but I got to enjoy some sunshine, and of course ate some great food.

My favourite restaurant in Calis Beach has to be Aroma.  Its a small restaurant in a perfect location on the seafront, where you can sit and listen to the waves, and of course watch the famous Calis sunset.

I was welcomed by Mustafa who is the perfect host, friendly, welcoming and willing to explain the menu and make recommendations if required.  The restaurant serves Turkish and Greek food, and there's no rice, chips and salad combo here, which is a refreshing change as most of the other restaurants serve them, and I have to say it can get a little bit boring.  No boring food in Aroma though!

I selected Papoutsakia to start, this is a greek dish, which is stuffed aubergine, with mincemeat and tomatoes.  For my main meal, I chose something from the Turkish menu, which was chicken in a radish sauce.

First the garlic bread and dips came to the table, again something a little bit different for Calis Beach and they tasted very good.

My aubergine starter came out bubbling away, and was full of flavour.

Finally my main meal of the chicken and radish sauce was served, and it had so much flavour.  The presentation was nice, and the side dishes of grilled vegetables (carrots and courgettes) and onion and orange were so tasty.  Aroma serves different side dishes, so when I visited a second time I got something different, but it was equally as delicious.

After the meal I had a coffee and never felt rushed to leave.  The service was friendly and efficient.

I would recommend Aroma to anyone in the Fethiye area who is looking for something a little bit different.  I know I will be back again, and it will be at the top of my list for a visit!

Aroma is on the seafront in Calis Beach.  As you come onto the prom from the bridge turn right, it is situated between a tour agency and Merhaba restaurant, in front of Ibrahim Bey hotel.

Goodbye Ankara

After 9 months of teaching in Ankara my time has come to an end and its been a fantastic experience.

I met some amazing people during my time there, students, colleagues and complete strangers.  Turkish people are so welcoming and are willing to help you, whatever the problem.  I had a few laughs with the problems with trying to learn the language, and unfortunately after my time there it didn't really improve as much as I had hoped, so during my time in the UK, I will study my Turkish language book ready for my return to Turkey in September.

I look back on my time here and I consider myself to be very lucky to be able to travel and meet so many wonderful people.  I received such a welcome in Ankara, and made some good friends, who I am sure will remain friends for some time to come.

Something that struck me while I was in Ankara was how people stick together, and I saw evidence of that during some of the recent problems.  One of my last classes I taught we talked about pride, and one of the students said 'I'm proud of my country, the people, the food and my football team.'  I have to agree with the first three, but I'm not convinced by the fourth.  Turkish people are very proud of their country and rightly so.  Its a stunning country, and I am proud to have called it home for the last nine months.  This isn't the end of my time here, as I plan to return to Turkey again in September, but I say goodbye to Ankara.

I will miss all my friends, thank you all for the welcome you gave me.

Fish and Raki

I am always asked if I have tried certain food or drink in Turkey, and one comes up every time.  'Do you like Raki?'.  My answer was always the same, 'No I don't like it.'  The strong aniseed flavour is too much for me, and I remember the only time I drank it and I felt quite ill the morning after.

I was told by students I was drinking it all wrong, and I should drink it slowly (and don't drink any other alcohol with it)  and its best with fish.  I still wasn't convinced, so when I was asked to go for fish and Raki I was still a little unsure, but I was willing to give it a go and be proved wrong!

We went to a fantastic restaurant in the Tunali area of Ankara (http://www.marmarisbalikcisi.com/) and our Turkish friends ordered the food (and Raki).

We started off with some cheese, and the Raki was poured, it had to be mixed with just the right amount of water (and no ice), and you drink it slowly, with the food.

Unfortunately I forgot my camera, so have no photos of the Raki, but one of my friends took some photos of the meal.

The fish that had been ordered was Lagos (grouper), and was cooked in salt, it was brought to the table and set alight.  Then the salt was chipped away before being served.

The fish tasted amazing and accompanied with salad and vegetables, it was a stunning meal, and yes I agree fish and Raki go well together.

We then had various fruit at the end of the meal which again was good with Raki, and then we finished the night with a Turkish coffee.

And the following morning??  I didn't feel like I had done previously when drinking Raki!  I felt great!

Delicious food in Goreme

While we were in Cappadocia we visited the Old Cappadocia Restaurant in Goreme for an evening meal.  We were tired after a long day and we came across the restaurant on the main street.  The menu looked inviting.

I had heard about the wine from the Cappadocia region, so of course I had to give it a go, so I ordered a glass of white, and it was delicious, probably the best wine I have tasted during all of my visits to Turkey.

I ordered the Testi Kebab or Pottery Kebab, as this was a local dish I had seen and wanted to give it a try.

The waiter brought us some local 'flat' bread, and a small dish of oil and one of black pepper, and told us to dip the bread into the oil and then the pepper.  It was really good.

Then the Testi Kebab arrived, it was served in a clay pot and arrived at the table on fire.

And if that wasn't dramatic enough the waiter brought a hammer, and broke open the pot.  Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of this as the fire, hammer and flying pottery was making me a little bit nervous, but once the top of the pot had been removed it revealed this:

Once the flames had died down, I was able to taste the meal, the taste lived up to the drama.  It was a delicious casserole of chicken with vegetables in a tasty sauce, served with rice.

After another glass of wine we headed back to the hotel.

At the Market

One of the many great things about Turkey is the fresh fruit and vegetables, and its always an adventure to visit the local market every Friday for my supplies for the week, something I look forward to.

The stallholders are always welcoming, and try to teach me a little Turkish on each visit, and we always somehow manage to have a laugh and joke, usually because we can't understand each other!

The stalls always look colourful with all the different fruit and vegetables, sometimes when I don't know what something is they offer a piece for me to try, and see if I know what it is.  Usually it doesn't help me much, but its always nice to try something new.

Always ready with a smile 

Always ready with a smile 

Cappadocia

As it gets closer to the end of my time here in Ankara, there are still a few places I want to visit, and Cappadocia was at the top of my list!  I was lucky enough to visit there last week and it truly is a stunning place.  I was very surprised to hear from the guide that there are not many visitors there from the UK!

Cappadocia is about 4 hours away from Ankara on the bus, and we took the bus to the town of Goreme at 1.30 am, which meant we arrived at 5.30am in time for the sunrise.  The area was busy even at that time of the morning, as there are many hot air balloon companies which take tourists to see sunrise.  Unfortunately this was too expensive for us teachers, so we watched the balloons from a nearby vantage point.

It was a fantastic sight, and obviously big business for the companies in Cappadocia.  The busy tourist season is April, May and September, October.  The summer is too hot for tourists to explore the area.  We then walked down to our hotel to see if we could check in, and we were in luck.  We checked into our cave room at www.http://cappadociaufukpension.com/ which was clean and comfortable, and went in the search for some breakfast.

We were all starting to run out of steam, as we had travelled overnight straight after work, so a strong coffee was in order, along with menemen (scrambled eggs with tomato and green pepper).  After breakfast we went on a search for a tour and found one that was leaving at 9.30am that was visiting Derinkuyu underground city (which is the deepest of the 36 underground cities in Cappadocia), Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastery, along with a couple of other photo opportunity stops.  I am not a fan of tours, I prefer to find my own way around and go to places I want to go to, so I found the day very restrictive, but we met some interesting people and got to see some great places.

The evening was spent having a relaxing meal, and drink Cappadocia wine, which was probably the nicest wine I have found so far in Turkey, but the meal will be a separate blog!

After our night in the cave room, we had a typical Turkish breakfast in the hotel, and walked up to the Goreme Open Air Museum.

Soon after it was time to say goodbye to Cappadocia, and I hope to visit again.  There is so much to see and do and two days are definitely not enough!