Hamamonu - Ankara

Recently I visited the area of Hamamonu in Ankara.  It wasn't the first time I had visited as I went in October.  The area is undergoing restoration at the moment, and in October it was difficult to see everything.  This time was different.  A lot of the work that was going on in October (all the areas for walking had been dug up) had been completed, and the sun was shining.  There is still a lot of work going on in the area, but there are plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants in the area that have been completed.

Hamamonu is one of the oldest districts of Ankara, and is now almost completely pedestrianised, so it's a peaceful and tranquil area.  It's a treat to sit outside one of the many cafes, restaurants and tea houses in the sunshine and watch the world go by.  There are artist's studios in the square where they display their work.

Turkish Coffee

Since arriving in Ankara I have developed a love for Turkish coffee.  I have always liked my coffee strong, but Turkish coffee is a little different, and has a thicker consistency.

When you order a Turkish coffee you are asked how you like it, this means how sweet do you want it?  Sugar is added to the coffee when it is being brewed, rather than being added after.  I always find that even if I ask for a little sugar, it is too sweet for me, so I always have it sade (no sugar), when I make it at home I will add one sugar cube for two cups and this is usually just right for me.

Turkish coffee is the way that the coffee is made, rather than the type of coffee bean.  The coffee is ground very fine, finer than espresso, you put enough water for how many cups of coffee you want into the cezve (the special pot used for making the coffee, often made of copper), which is pictured below.  You add the required amount of sugar, and then the coffee, but it is recommended not to stir at this point.  It is heated slowly, in turkish homes the cooker has a small gas ring just the right size for the cezve.  Traditionally though, the cezve is placed in a tray of sand which is placed above a heat source, this ensures that the coffee is heated slowly and evenly.  On a recent trip to Hamamonu in Ankara, there were many cafes that prepared the coffee in this way.

The Cezve

A cezve of coffee being heated in the traditional tray of sand

The coffee is often served with Turkish Delight, a favourite of mine, and its sweetness compliments the bitterness of the coffee perfectly.  You are always brought water with a Turkish coffee, to cleanse the palate.

Turkish coffee in Istanbul 

Turkish coffee served in a traditional cup, with water and Turkish Delight in Bolu

The grains that are left in the coffee cup after the coffee has been drunk can be used for fortune telling.  I'm generally not a believer in this and I'm sure everyone will see a different picture, but to me the grains in this cup resemble the Welsh Dragon....  

The Welsh Dragon??

Ankara Castle in Photos

I recently went up to Ankara Castle, it was a beautiful clear day, so I made the most of the weather.  The castle is in a very traditional area of the city, and on a clear day the views of the city are fantastic.  Its quite a walk to the top, but its worth it.

View of Ankara from the castle walls

Looking down from the castle

Handmade items for sale at the castle

Rooftop view

Why did the chicken cross the road?

Carrying water

side street

Copper items for sale

Why Turkey?

I am often asked the question 'Why Turkey?'.  My love for Turkey and all things Turkish goes back a few years when I visited Turkey for the first time.  I had always said that when I go on holiday I would always go somewhere different as there are so many places in the world to see.  Then I discovered Turkey!  I got my first taste of Turkey when I visited Kyrenia in North Cyprus, before this I hadn't really thought about visiting Turkey, but Kyrenia gave me a small taste of Turkey, so the next year I booked for mainland Turkey and the area of Fethiye.

As soon as I arrived there I felt at home and fell in love with the area.  The people there who have become very good friends, the relaxed atmosphere, the amazing food and the stunning sunsets.  I was in love straight away, and I knew I would be back there, and I was just a few months later.  This was in 2009, and I have kept returning to Calis Beach since then.

Calis Beach Sunset

Patara Beach

Kaya Koy

Calis Beach Sunset

Calis Beach feels like my second home, my friends treat me like a member of their family, and they really look after me when I am there.  I have favourite restaurants and bars, and for anyone visiting Fethiye I would recommend Mozaik Bahce for a taste of food from the Hatay region.  The other day my students told me I should try food from the Hatay area, and I said with a big smile that I had and I believe it is the best in Turkey!  The liver kebab is amazing, as is the pepper bread.  In Calis Beach Aroma restaurant is a favourite, it has something a little bit different from the rest of the restaurants on the seafront as it serves food with a Greek and Turkish influence and no rice and chips, which is what you get with most meals in Calis, it's definitely worth a try.  For a nice relaxed drink I enjoy going to Cinar Bar on the seafront, its very relaxed and you always receive a great welcome.

I have always found http://www.calis-beach.co.uk/forum/ answers any questions I have about the Calis Beach and Fethiye area, and it has plenty of recommendations for hotels, restaurants and things to do.  Before my first visit to Calis Beach I used the forum to find out as much as I could about the area and I still use it.

I hope to visit Fethiye soon, but its a fair distance from Ankara, so a little bit difficult to go on my two days off, but as soon as I have a free week I will be there, and I will be sure to write a blog or two when I visit.

Turkish Food - Gozleme

On my recent trip to Bolu, I had one of my favourite types of food for lunch.  It is no secret that I am a big fan of gozleme.  I don't think I have ever had a bad gozleme, but the one I had in Bolu has to be one of the best.  We had found a small restaurant ( http://www.kubbealti.net/ )that had a big selection of gozleme and you could have them with a yoghurt topping or without.

Gozleme is a very thin pastry dish and it comes with a variety of fillings, I usually go for a vegetable filling, and on this occasion I went for aubergine and potato.

We chose a table where we could watch the ladies make the gozleme.

It's always fascinating to watch these ladies at work, they work quickly and efficiently to feed their hungry customers.  The gozleme are cooked on a griddle which you can just about see at the front of the photograph.

This place was full of hungry locals, it was a popular choice for a quick lunchtime snack,  When the gozleme arrived we weren't disappointed.

It tasted fantastic and a perfect snack after a couple of hours travelling on the bus.  Accompanied with a glass of Turkish tea of course!!

A Day in Bolu

I had heard a lot about the nearby city of Bolu, and it's beautiful lake area, so we decided one day to make the trip.  We got a bus from the local bus station, and the journey took around two hours.  The bus journey was very comfortable and drinks and snacks were included.  The bus station in Bolu was small and a few kilometres away from the centre.  We had planned on getting the bus from the city centre, but when we arrived we were told there are no buses!  So we had an unexpected day in the city, but this was a really nice city, with old and new buildings and was surrounded by mountains.  I did get a little freaked out with the pigeons flying overhead, there was so many of them, and they came so close to my head, it was a struggle to take the photos!

The centre of Bolu

The 'old town'

Locals selling their produce

A familiar sight around Turkey

And just a few minutes walk from the centre of Bolu:

And like any time we visit somewhere new, the food is always important, we had Gozleme for lunch, but that will be in another blog post!  We had Turkish coffee looking over the main square of the city.  In the evening we found a great little restaurant called Mercan-i.  The food was fantastic, one of the best meals I have had since my arrival in Ankara!

Turkish coffee is always best accompanied with Turkish Delight

Bread and dips to start

A stunning lamb meal

A really good day, but next time I hope to get to the lake!