Izmir - Asansor

Izmir really is a beautiful city, and there is one place where you are guaranteed a good view.

On a sunny day, after a walk along the seafront I used the 'Asansor' to get home. Asansor is a lift that links the area at sea level to one of the neighbourhoods on a higher level. It was built in 1907 by Nesim Levi Bayraklıoğlu, a wealthy banker and trader, as an aid to carry people and goods from the lower level. It is now mainly used as a tourist attraction with spectacular views from the top and a restaurant. Its is also still used by the local residents to get to their homes and workplaces. I used it to get back to my apartment, which is a little higher than where the Asansor takes you, but only a short walk away.

The Asansor

Stunning views of Izmir

Graffiti on the wall of the lift

The street below the Asansor is now called Dario Moreno Sokak (Dario Moreno Street), after a singer who lived in the street in the 1940s. You'll find small shops selling items for tourists and a small cafe here.

Dario Moreno lyrics

Dario Moreno Sokak

And then I had the steps back home to conquer...... This is the first flight......

It's a nice walk but not everyday. I'll still use the Metro everyday!

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year!  Mutlu Yillar!  Blwyddyn Newydd Dda!

Well 2015 has arrived and I just about made it home to watch the fireworks over the bay.  I spent Christmas in Wales, and travelled back to Izmir on 31st December and was due at home at around 9pm, but it didn't quite go to plan.  After snow storms in Istanbul, two delayed flights and a wrong transport choice from the airport, I finally made it home.  I hauled my 20kg suitcase and various other bags up the 70 stairs and opened my door to the sound of the first firework going off.  I grabbed a bottle of Bomonti beer from the fridge to toast the New Year, watched the fireworks and that was my New Year!

New Year's Day saw a cold and windy day and I can see some snow in the distance.

New Year gives us a chance to reflect on the past year and look forward to the next. So.....

2014 highlights were:

Spending New Year in Istanbul - an amazing city and I hope to pay it another visit soon.
Visiting Cappadocia - a stunning area in Turkey which I recommend to anyone visiting the country.
Anitkabir - Ataturk's Mausoleum - A must visit place in Ankara
The summer spent in the UK with family and friends, and of course making it back to the UK for Christmas.

I met some great people while living in Ankara, and made some great friends.

Moving to Izmir has also been a great opportunity for me.  I love the city but haven't really spent much time exploring, which brings me to looking forward to 2015.

There are so many places near Izmir that need exploring, but top of my list is Ephesus and Sirince (apparently the wine here is fantastic).  I still haven't visited Cesme and when the weather improves I will make the bus journey, and also get to visit some Greek islands.  I hope to get out and about more and take more photographs and blog a lot more.

My battle with the language is well known, and I will continue with it.  I don't know how long I will stay in Turkey but its important for me to be able to communicate.

My love for Turkish food grows every day, and I like to try new things.  I would love to learn how to cook some of my favourite dishes, but until then I will enjoy eating them.  Pass me the Baklava please.....

I hope 2015 brings you everything you wish for.

Learning Turkish

Last year I wrote about my problems with learning Turkish, and unfortunately this isn't getting much better.
I relied on mime a lot of the time in Ankara, and it has failed me in Izmir, after trying to explain a few things to my landlady (Hornets, washing machine breakdown), so I'm now studying Turkish.

Unfortunately because of work commitments it's difficult for me to attend classes, so I am going down the self study route, with a couple of books, and post it notes stuck all around my flat, with new vocabulary.
I can remember vocabulary quite easily, but I'm having a big problem with grammar.

Last week I needed to pay an electric bill, but I wasn't sure where I could pay.  I was due to pay my rent at the estate agents, so I took my bill along with me.

I was given the usual glass of tea on my arrival and I took my electric bill out, waved it at them, and said 'Electric, para, nerede?' 'Electric, money, where?'  I sounded like a Turkish cave-woman, but they were so happy with my efforts.  'Excellent Turkish' they complimented me!

I don't worry about making mistakes and I am studying the grammar, but I am finally (very slowly) getting understood!!

Everybody needs good neighbours

After moving into my apartment in Izmir, I have met a few of my neighbours.  I live in a block of around 20 flats, and I'm situated right on the top floor, so I often pass my neighbour's doors and they are always willing to chat to the Yabanci (foreigner)!

The neighbours have been so welcoming even if I can't have a full conversation with them, and they often knock on the door with some food for me to try.  This is often fruit, but also last month I also had a few offerings of Asure.  Asure or Noah's Pudding is a dessert which is made of grains, fruits and nuts.  It is claimed that when Noah's ark came to rest on Mount Ararat, Noah's family celebrated with a special dish.  As they were running low on supplies they used what was remaining (grains, dried fruit etc) to make a dessert.  This is now what is known as Asure and every family has a different recipe.  Now it is made to celebrate the Ark's landing and shared with friends, family and neighbours.  Even for someone with a sweet tooth, it's very sweet!!

Some Asure from one of my neighbours

I was stopped in the street near my flat recently, I think it was one of my many neighbours, keen to know if I was settling in.  I assured her that I was  and she went merrily on their way.

My next door neighbour often knocks on my door (or wall if I don't answer straight away).  We have a short chat.  Last time she brought me a plate of melon and invited me round to her home for coffee.  When I'm a little bit more confident with my Turkish language skills I will go.

I have always found Turkish people to be very welcoming wherever I have visited, and I am so happy to be in my neighbourhood where they have welcomed me with open arms.

Settling into Izmir Life

I have been in Izmir for a few months, but internet has been limited.

When I arrived I was staying in temporary accommodation while I looked for my own place.  Finding a furnished flat is difficult in Izmir, they are in demand and the good ones are snapped up immediately.  I scoured the internet for hours each day in the hope of being the first one to view a good place.  I viewed a number of places, and none were suitable, or was I being too fussy??  I was getting disheartened when I saw a flat online, and there was a photo of the view, it was breath taking.  I had to have a look at this place.  I arranged a viewing for the next day (Saturday evening) and although it was on the top floor (70 stairs) I knew it was for me.  I'm sure you will agree the view is stunning!

The flat is situated at the top of a hill, but is easily reached by Metro (Izmir's easy to follow underground railway, there is only one line!!). The area is vibrant and has a traditional feel to it.  I haven't seen any other foreigners in this area as yet.

One of the first problems I had when I moved in was a large amount of hornets, or donkey bees as they are known as in Turkey.  I tried to find out from my landlady if there was a nest in the roof, but everything got lost in translation, it started out as her thinking I couldn't open the balcony door, so I had a full demonstration.  When I pointed to the roof, she thought I was trying to say that someone might try and get in through the roof, so I was taken to show how secure the building is! (I think I am now known as the crazy yabanci (foreigner)) So I have learnt to live with the 'Donkey Bees'.  They have the balcony from 10-3, and I have it the rest of the time!  I'm not sure where they come from but they only stick around for a few hours, so I live with it!

My washing machine broke, I was a little more successful in getting this across to the engineer.  It was quickly fixed and all is well.

I have finally got internet.  Again I was impressed with the efficiency, but this was shortlived.  Stage one was supposed to take 7 working days, but this morning (on day 1 of the 7), the doorbell rang, I was faced with a red faced man who had just conquered the 70 stairs.  'Hello, little English, Internet.'  Excellent, I let him in, he did his job, then he said 'I go now, I love you.'  Umm OK, I can't imagine BT engineers declaring their love for their customers!!  The modem was delivered a couple of days later, where the cheery engineer connected me, and said the internet signal would be with me that day.  Unfortunately that's where the efficiency ended.  It has taken a lot longer than the expected seven days, and each time I called them I was told 'There is a problem.'  Obviously!!

I have now settled into life in Izmir, the pace is more relaxed than Ankara that's for sure!!

Landing in Izmir

After spending a fantastic 2 month summer break in Wales with family and friends, it was soon time to start packing for my next adventure in Turkey and say goodbye to everyone.  Packing was a challenge as I knew there were a lot of things I struggled to get in Turkey, or which were really expensive, so I packed my curry spices, coconut oil, stock cubes, supplements, wasabi peas and of course my beloved fruit pastilles.  I went shopping for new shoes as its almost impossible to but shoes in Turkey for my huge (size 41 or 7 in UK) feet!!

Although I was sad to say goodbye to all my friends and family in Wales I was excited as I was moving to a different city and i had heard so many good things about Izmir.  The big plus for me was that Izmir is located on the coast, and this is one of the big things I was missing in Ankara.  Because of the location this would also mean milder winters, so no more -20 degrees Celsius for me again!!  Izmir is the third biggest city in Turkey (after Istanbul and Ankara), with a population of approximately 3.5 million, so in comparison to North Wales it's huge, but it's smaller than Ankara.

I had never been to Izmir when I made the decision to accept a job there, but I had faith in my friends who were telling me so many positives about it.

I arrived at night and was taken straight to my hotel so I didn't get a chance to see the city until the following morning and I was impressed with what I saw.  The city is quite clean, the air feels really clean, thanks to the proximity to the sea, there are palm trees everywhere and the and the city has a relaxed vibe about it.  It feels a lot smaller than Ankara, and there is a lot less traffic (and a lot less beeping of the horn).

The city has a lot of tourists especially along the seafront when there is a cruise ship in the port.
Public  transport is easy to use and efficient, and I especially like the frequent ferries to different parts of the city.

I'm really looking forward to exploring the city and seeing what the area has got to offer, and of course tasting the local cuisine.  So far I have discovered the cig kofte is the best I have ever tasted!

Eating in Fethiye - Mozaik Bahce

For me every holiday to Calis Beach MUST have at least one visit to Mozaik Bahce, and my latest holiday was no exception.

I had already visited one lunchtime and had a ciger durum (liver wrap), which was amazing.  

I had heard about the sampler afternoon that was now on offer at the restaurant.  This is available for groups of 10 or more, and I joined a group on a Saturday afternoon during my holiday.  The meal was a bargain at 30TL, and I made sure I only had a small breakfast that day as they are generous with their servings!

I arrived at 2 o'clock and met my fellow diners.  I ordered my drink and then the food started to arrive!  The sampler is a selection of food off the main menu, and as I usually stuck to the same options I was excited to try some different meals.

Mozaik Bahce specialises in food from the Hatay area which is in the South East of Turkey, and is known for its fantastic food.  When I was in Ankara, all the students told me that I must try food from Hatay.  Food from this area is spicy and full of flavour, so I knew I was in for a treat!

To start with we had a mixed meze plate and icli kofte (mincemeat in couscous) to share, with some of the restaurant's famous pepper bread.

Mixed Meze

Icli Kofte

Pepper Bread

 After a short break the main meals were brought out - a mixed grill (sorry no photo), which had various meats, my favourite being the liver, which I never used to like at home, but this is so good, stuffed chicken (this is stuffed with cheese, pine and pistachio nuts) - this was very tasty, Ali Nazik - Minced meat and pine nuts served on a yoghurt base, again this was full of flavour, Arab Kebab - minced meat and vegetables, Tavuc Guvec - Chicken casserole served with cheese.  All of the dishes were very tasty, but when I visited later in the week I selected the stuffed chicken from the menu as I had enjoyed it so much.

Arab Kebab

Casserole

Side dishes of potato and bulgar wheat (and a yoghurt dish)

Ali Nasik

By this time I was feeling so full, but there were still the desserts to sample.  I have never tried the desserts in Mozaik Bahce before as I never had any room for them, so I was determined to give them a try.

We had Sam Tatlisi - Semolina, Walnuts and Cinnamon, Cevizili Tas Kadayif - Pancakes stuffed with Walnuts and Cinnamon, Kunefe, Cevizli Havuc - Carrot Cake.  I somehow managed to find room to give them all a try and I have to say the Cevizli Havuc (top of the plate slightly hidden by the ice cream) came out on top for me.  It was delicious.

All in all the meal was delicious and gave me a chance to try some food on the menu that I wouldn't have chosen (because I always seem to order the same thing!) and it was a bargain!!

Mozaik Bahce is in Fethiye, Cumhuriyet Mah 90/91 Sokak (Behind Domino's Pizza).